Might not be a good idea: http://www.thenewsstar.com/article/2...spect+arrested
Might not be a good idea: http://www.thenewsstar.com/article/2...spect+arrested
Hydroseeding.
Is it a good alternative to sod?
What are the pros vs reg seeding.
JMO, but sod is the best.
My yard was hydroseeded. Got to treat it like a baby when it comes to watering... a two inch rain came along and washed away the unestablished areas. Now I need to sod those areas.
I'd only seed if burmuda. Centepede can be seeded, but it is expensive.
I don't recommend Hydro Seeding for anything other than roadways. If you are going to seed your lawn and you have full sun just seed it with Bermuda. There is no need to hydro seed. All that does is bring in a bunch of weeds. Here's the process for seeding with Bermuda. Step one level the soil. If you are going to bring in dirt use good clean top soil. People around here get river sand and it is loaded with weeds, mainly nut sedge and it takes years to get it processed out. Step two spray the area to be seeded with Round-Up or some other brand of Glysophate. Wait a week. You need to allow a week before seeding after spraying with Round-Up. Try to by the cleanest seed that you can get. The amount of impurities will be listed on the label. Lightly rake the soil so that the seed can take hold, a light tilling would be better but any way you can break up the soil would be OK. Apply the seed at 2 lbs for every thousand square feet. Any more than that prohibits the seed from germinating. Once he seed is down you need to keep it moist. water it for 10-15 mins in the morning and again in the evening. Once the seed has germinated put out fertilizer with at least a lb of N for every thousand square feet. A product like 32-3-8 would need about 4lbs for every thousand square feet. 32% nitrogen X 4lbs is about 1 lb of N. Continue to water but not every day. 2-3 times per week at about 40 mins per area. Once the grass is about 2.5 inches high mow. Never mow than 1/3 of the leaf at one mowing. Fertilize, water, mow and you should have a good stand of turf by the end of the Summer. There will be some weeds but you can apply preemergent in the Fall and Crabgrass control next Spring and you should be in good shape.
FYI, there is a new herbicide on the market. I don' know if it is available to the homeowner yet, but it is made by Bayer and it is the best thing to come out in the near 20 years I have been in this business. It's called Celsius. It's safe for St. Aug and Centipede and controls a large variety of weeds including Bahia, crabgrass, and I'm even having some success on Dallisgrass.
Looks like I have misses a lot on this forum. Sorry for my absence. 50 year old St. Aug. WOW. 1st of all consider that the trees are 50 years older too and thus larger. Since they are pine trees the amount of sunlight is probably not a problem but let me get on my soapbox for a moment. Grass likes SUN! St. Augustine is shade tolerant it does not like the shade. Ask yourself if they plant trees on a sod farm.. the answer of course is no because grass likes sun. So the more shade you have the more difficult it is to grow grass. Can you grow grass in some shade yes, but the more shade you have the more problems are magnified.
Now this brings me to the pine trees. Pine needles acidify the soil. This is why pine needles make great mulch around Azaleas. Do a soil test on the lawn to see what the pH is and if it is lower than 6 you may need to bring in lime. Lots of lime. Check with your local co-op. I know the Ag center in Shreveport does soil testing for a very reasonable charge, less than $10 I think.
Now if there is plenty of sun and the pH is fine my next guess would be SAD virus. The old Texas Common variety of St. Augustine is the only variety that gets this virus and it is the primary type that was used for many years. St. Augustine Decline is incurable. What you should do is find another type of St. Aug. I suggest Palmetto, or Raleigh and sprig in throughout the lawn allowing it to eventually take over.
Tactical Nukes yes but in lieu of those the traps are good. Just know that you have to stay after them. Find the active tunnels and don't stop till you have eliminate every last one of them.
Side note: Moles primary diet is earthworms not grubs. Killing the grubs will not eliminate the moles. There is also a product called Talprid that looks like a tray of fishing lures. You place them in the tunnels cover them up. Mole eats what it thinks is an earthworm, dies. They are also made by Bayer.
A fat mole is a good meal.
Marinate anything long enough and it'll eventually taste like worcestershire.
Originally Posted by champion110
I am less angry this morning and ready to get back up on the horse. That girl was a freak last night.
Originally Posted by champion110
In fact, I finally had to tell her to stop over the last weekend, because I was worn out and needed a break.